Action of Wave | Related Terms, Erosion Processes, Features, Coastal Deposition

The role of waves as a significant force in the processes of erosion, transportation, and deposition is limited to coastal areas near seas and oceans. The rate of marine erosion is influenced by factors such as the type of rocks present, the extent of rock exposure to the sea, the impact of tides and currents, […]

The role of waves as a significant force in the processes of erosion, transportation, and deposition is limited to coastal areas near seas and oceans. The rate of marine erosion is influenced by factors such as the type of rocks present, the extent of rock exposure to the sea, the impact of tides and currents, and human interventions in coastal protection.

 

Wave-Related Terms

  1. Wave: Turbulent water movement caused by wind over the water.
  2. Tide: Alternating rise and fall of the sea surface approximately twice a day.
  3. Current: Movement of water in a specific direction within the ocean.
  4. Coast: The interface between land and sea.
  5. Shore: The land section between high and low water.
  6. Beach: Material deposited on the shore by wave action.
  7. Swash: Water thrown up the beach by breaking waves.
  8. Backwash: Water that retreats back after washing up.
  9. Undertow: Water flowing near the bottom away from the shore.

 

Wave Erosion Processes

(1) Corrosion: Wearing down of a cliff’s base by wave action.

(2) Attrition: Breakdown of materials like pebbles and boulders against cliffs.

(3) Hydraulic action: Fast-moving waves force into cracks, enlarging them.

(4) Solvent action: Disintegration of rock materials through the sea’s chemical action.

 

Features From Wave Erosion

(1) Capes and Bays: Coastal features made of hard rock (cape) or soft rock (bays).

(2) Cliff: Steep rock faces formed by wave action on headlands.

(3) Coastal Cave: Arch-shaped feature in steep or cliff coast.

(4) Arch: Formation when two caves meet from opposite sides of a headland.

(5) Stack: Remaining seaward portion after the collapse of an arch.

(6) Stump: A visible portion of a stack above sea level.

(7) Geo: Narrow hole in a cliff formed when a cave collapses.

(8) Gloup or Blowhole: Hole developed on the cave roof due to wave hydraulic action.

 

Coastal Deposition Features

(1) Beaches: Deposits of sand and gravel moved by waves along the shore.

(2) Spits: Ridges of sand and gravel formed by longshore drift across coastal inlets.

(3) Bar: Ridge, often of sand or rock debris, formed across the mouth of a river or bay.

(4) Marine Dunes and Dune Belt: Formed by onshore winds, moving coastal sand into dunes and eventually into dune belts.

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